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Solar collectors transform sunlight into thermal-energy - so use it


Did you know that cars are solar collectors? Surprised, well just roll up the windows in yours and park it under the sun. Sunlight - powerful stuff; I don’t have to tell you what happens next. Doing what it does inside your car, just think what else it can do.

Capturing sunlight is one thing; doing something with it is another... and that's where solar collectors come in. After capturing the sun’s energy, it needs to be stored if you plan to use it. First, you need an absorber. Yap, solar collectors have them too. With these, you can trap and store it. This is the most efficient way to convert it into usable energy.

A simple way to illustrate is by making a simple solar collector out of a small cardboard box. Open up the box and place a thermometer inside, then cover the opening with a piece of sheet metal, a cookie sheet or a flat pizza pan’ll work. Place the box under the sun and wait awhile. It won’t be long before the sheet metal gets blixy-hot. Remove the sheet metal and read the thermometer - interesting huh! Oh by the way, you just made a solar cooker.

You can see the absorbing material that traps the energy is simply a thin sheet of aluminum or copper. Then a covering of baked on black polyceram or epoxy paint is applied. This material maximizes heat absorption. The heat then transfers into another medium such as air, water, or a glycol solution, thus converting it into usable energy. Insulation helps the plate (absorber) hold the collected heat and glazing reduces heat lose even further.

Heat transfer takes place when either air or tubes filled with some kind of liquid come in contact with the hot absorber material. Glazing material is usually low iron tempered plate glass. The glazing allows sunlight to strike the absorber, but prevents the heat from escaping. Just as your car’s rolled-up windows kept the heat in.

Using plastic glazing will reduce the collector’s weight and cost, however over time, its performance may suffer and life serviceability may decrease. A well sealed collector will likely deteriorate due to out-gassing which results in a haze on the inside surface.

Regardless whether glass or plastic, the desirable radiation is 90% incoming and zero escape loses. From this point on, either gravity or electoral/mechanical devices process and store the heat for direct use or for further distribution.

Solar collectors are wonderful devices. They've been around in one shape or another for a long long time. The ancient Greeks, then later the Romans used passive solar collectors of a sort to capture sunlight to heat indoor spaces.

The Romans went a step further, placing glass (actually mica) on south facing building openings to capture and retain the winter sun’s heat. Moreover, both Greeks and Romans used solar energy to offset wood shortages. Sound familiar?!

In the seventh Century B.C., magnifying glasses were used to make fires and surprisingly – to burn ants. Come the first Century A.D., Roman bathhouses created large south facing windows to catch the sun’s warmth. Colorado Mesa Verde National Park’s Pueblo dwellings faced south to utilize seasonal sunlight.

Around the late eighteen hundreds; inventor Clarence Kemp received a patent for a solar-water heater. Then after World War II, applying passive solar techniques to buildings became popular because of the wartime energy shortages.

Then suddenly, energy from the sun began to get a lot more attention when NASA launched the first spacecraft equipped with a solar 470-watt solar array. The trend focused most of the attention on solar photovoltaics. But quiet development of solar collectors began to receive more and more attention.

Well, so much for history, and how they came about, let’s look at the now. Actually my goal here is to bore you… no no no, just kidding. Really, what I want to do is supply you with pertinent quality information so you can make intelligent choices on system types, should you decide to go solar. Since it all starts with the collector, let’s get started.

SOLAR COLLECTOR TYPES
All about em and a little bit about what makes em tick:

  1. AIR BASED COLLECTORS
    1. Back Pass Collectors
    2. Glazed Flat-Plates
    3. The Trombe Wall
    4. Transpired Air Collectors
    5. Unglazed Perforated Plate
  2. ABSORBERS and MATERIALS
  3. CONCENTRATING COLLECTORS
    1. The Fresnel Lens
    2. Parabolic Dish Collectors
    3. The Parabolic Trough
    4. The Power Tower System
    5. Stationary Concentrating Collectors
  4. DESICCANTS and INSULATION
  5. EVACUATED TUBE COLLECTORS
    1. Direct-Flow Evacuated-Tube
      1. Concentric Fluid Inlet and Outlet Pipe (glass-metal) Separated Inlet and Outlet Pipe (glass-metal) Evacuated Glass Tube Collector (glass-glass)
    2. Heat Pipe Evacuated-Tube
  6. GLAZINGS
  7. GLAZED FLAT-PLATE COLLECTORS
  8. LIQUID BASED COLLECTORS
  9. SOLAR ENERGY GLOSSARY
  10. SOLAR COOKERS
  11. UNGLAZED FLAT-PLATE COLLECTORS
  12. *USED FOR ETHYL ALCOHOL DISTILLATION
  13. LINKS


I. AIR BASED SOLAR COLLECTORS
We know that the mechanism used to transfer the sun’s energy from one medium to another is a Collector. Air based solar collectors use air instead of liquids as the energy transfer medium. Regardless of the number of designs, air based solar collectors come in only one of three categories: direct gain, indirect gain and isolated gain collectors.

Ordinary south facing windows are solar collectors, as is tile or concrete, dwelling walls, solarium (sunroom), and green houses. The list of basic recommendations below provides insights into four of the five W’s of air based solar. The fifth is you should you decide to go solar.

Recommendations for air based systems:

  • Placing collectors for south facing exposure
  • Color darken walls in sunspaces or collector surfaces
  • Thickness of mass walls
    • 8 to 12 inches for adobe and earth
    • 10 to 14 inches of brick
    • 12 to 18 inches of concrete
  • Remove excess heat into thermal storage to maintain even temperature
  • Provide ventilation for the hot months
  • South facing glazing and floor space ratios
    • Use approximately 30 sq. feet of glazing per square foot of floor space with concrete or masonry walls
    • Use approximately 20 sq. feet of glazing per square foot of floor space with concrete or masonry walls
  • Overhead sun lights and sunspace glass should use heat-reflecting glass or shading

Air based systems begin producing heat earlier and lasts longer during the day than liquid bases systems of approximately the same size. Consequently, ventilation, heating and preheating is possible earlier. Besides heating individual spaces, heated air can also heat air passing into air recovery ventilators or air converters of heat pump systems.

As with any system, advantages and disadvantages are ever present. Air based solar collectors are no exception, however if properly installed (maximized), the system will easily out perform a liquid based system.

Advantages

  • Fast-reacting heat transfer
  • Absence of energy transfer fluid, piping and associated control equipment
  • Boiling not a problem
  • No problem with boiling or freeze ups
  • Little maintenance required
  • Expect long service life
  • Low system cost
  • Good return on initial investment.
Disadvantages
  • Air is less a efficient heat exchange medium than liquid
  • Air Collectors are not as common because of low heat storage capacity
  • Temperatures may be difficult to regulate
  • Balancing the amounts of thermal mass is essential for system stability
  • Potential for mildew when using gravel or rock for storage

Soooo, now you have some solar air system basics. Let’s get on with an explanation and diagrams for each of the solar collectors.
Return to Collector Type List


Back-Pass Solar Collector As we’ve seen, air based collectors use the sun’s energy to heat air instead of liquid. Solar energy heats the sun ward side of the collector while airflows across the backside of the heated material and radiates into the room or space. The heating surface may be combined with the mass of a Tromble Wall.

The back pass and perforated plate systems are basically the same except the back pass has no perforations. Of the three, the back pass is the most basic of all air collector systems.

Okay, back to back pass solar collectors. The sun strikes the collector (wall). The air in the space behind the collector heats up. As it heats, it rises and cool air replaces it. The cooler air that replaces the heated air, heats up as it rises across the collector’s heated surface. Placing vents at the top and bottom encourages air circulation. The vents allows cool air to enter the space at the bottom while hot air escapes out the top into the room.

On the other hand, you may direct the hot air into a ductwork where a furnace blower circulates it throughout the building. Okay, now you know what a back pass and perforated plate solar collector is.
Return to Collector Type List


Glazed Flat Plate
Glazed flat-plate collectors are satisfactory for heating, ventilation and for drying crops. However, this collector is inefficient when used for space heating.

A glazed flat plate is a collector sandwiched between a transparent (glass or polycarbonate) pane and insulation. Glazing allows maximum sunlight to reach the collector/absorber while minimizing heat loss. The absorber plates can be made of sheet metal, layers of screen, and suitable non-metallic materials. Natural convection air flows over the absorber or with a fan. Because air is not as efficient as liquid, it transfers less heat.

See Glazed Flat Plate Collectors below.
Return to Collector Type List


The Trombe Wall Solar Collector
Trombe walls are effective solar collectors, though not designed to provide air heating and ventilation, or for crop drying. The reason is thermal losses can be significant at night and with overcast conditions. However, it works fairly well for Space Heating.

It is a sun facing wall consisting of material that acts as a thermal mass. For example, they generally made from concrete, masonry, adobe or tanks of water. Combined with an air space (void), insulated glazing and vents, they form very large solar thermal collectors.

The sun begins to heat the wall in the morning, and continues throughout the day. As the heat saturates the mass of the wall, the room into which it faces, begins to receive even heating for many hours after the sun has set. The ambiance of trombe wall heated rooms, are more comfortable than those heated with a forced air furnaces. The reason being is that warmth by gentle radiation feels better even though the temperature may be lower.

Advantages

  • Very comfortable heat
  • Infrared radiation
  • More penetrating and pleasant.
  • Passive
  • No moving parts
  • Zero maintenance.
  • Simple Construction
  • Comparatively simple to incorporate into building structure as an internal or external wall
  • Significant reduction in heating bills
Disadvantages
  • Heat loss on overcast days
Return to Collector Type List


Transpired Air Solar Collectors
This collector like other types incorporated into a building, it is also south facing. This collector is an unglazed perforated plate of sheet metal with an air space between it and the wall.

Natural convection currents draw cool air through the perforations as heated airflow's up the wall to the top sill. The air space between the old wall and the collector plates provide a natural path for convection to take place. A blower or fan further assists the convection heat into the buildings ventilation system. Air flowing through this space is warmed by as much 40°,F.

This type of collector is preferred for large buildings with high ventilation loading requirements. However, they are generally unsuitable for private homes usually tightly sealed.
Return to Collector Type List


Unglazed Perforated Plate
This collector is a type of industrial-grade siding, similar to R panel corrugations. The panels are perforated with zillion holes to allow through airflow. The siding panels are placed so that a void (7 to 9 inches) between the building wall and the panels.

As the sun heats the siding, air is drawn through the perforations into the void. This heated fresh air rises via natural convection. The efficiency of this system is high because the paneling (collector) operates very near the outside air temperature.

The heated air rises up the void to the highest point into a kind of natural canopy at the top. This area acts as a manifold where air is drawn past by pass valves into the building. From there fans pull the heated air into its ventilation systems ducting. The by passes block air during warm weather.

When necessary, replacing conventional cladding with perforated plate siding, is extremely cost effective. While grid power increases, environmental laws are becoming more demanding. As a result, passive solar collectors will likely be integrated into many more building applications.
Return to Collector Type List


II. ABSORBERS and MATERIALS
Absorbers and black bodies are the same; in any case, an effective absorber is black. The principal is that Dark surfaces absorb energy from the sun. And since all solar collectors need absorbers, here's the ideal.

A perfect absorber will radiate 100%, of the radiant energy striking it. Normally, a good solar collectors absorber will radiate 90 to 96 percent of the radiant energy.

Therefore, a proper coating material translates into the conversion of a high percentage of solar radiation into heat. An effective coating reduces heat losses, by inhibiting waste long wave loss radiation reflections.

An absorber plate should be both stable and durable. It must withstand outdoor exposure, and varying temperatures. Unglazed solar collectors must be able to stand all weather extremes. While glazed collectors must be able to withstand temperature stagnation, otherwise out-gassing will occur. Out-gassing will fog the glazing material, consequently degrading its efficiency.

Various materials and applications techniques relate to ideal surface absorption and radiation efficiency. Powder (electrostatic) coating a collector absorber plate is ideal. At the very least, bake-on spray applied paints and primers are best. For example, aluminum oxide-nickel, black nickel, black chrome and the comparatively new titanium-nitride-oxide provides emission free, energy efficient coatings.

Depending on the temperature range, various materials from ultraviolet stabilized visqueen plastic for low to medium temperatures, to powder coated or plated black chrome for high temperatures are used. Remember, the greater the collectors complexity, the higher its cost. While a homemade spray-can coated absorber short cut will provide a degree of heat for very little cost, a black chromed absorber will collect heat and provide the foundation for an efficient heat collecting system that will last for a long-long time.

Selecting absorber coatings in accord with the sunlight wavelength is common practice. A collector’s optical properties and temperature determine its thermal absorption and loss factors. Therefore, correctly optimized absorber materials and coatings will maximize absorption and minimize thermal emissions.
Return to Collector Type List


III. CONCENTRATING SOLAR COLLECTORS
There's five of em in all, lets take a look:


Concentrating solar collectors have either a highly reflective surface or multiple Fresnel lens. Built up as a parabolic dish, or a trough. Both gadgets are made with reflective surfaces.

Imagine the trough as long live stock manger, and the dish like the familiar satellite TV receiver, but better yet, look at the illustrations. The Parabolic dish focuses sunlight into a concentrated area, usually an absorbent pipe where heat gets absorbed by some king of liquid. The absorber is always much smaller that the reflector otherwise it would block the sun’s light. This way, sun’s energy is highly concentrated into a small space.

The trough does the same thing as the dish, except the trough directs sun light on a focal point along the concentrators entire length.

Do you remember focusing sunlight through a magnifying glass when you were a kid? Remember that tiny spot of intensely hot sunlight – what it did to that piece of paper or dry leaf? Sure you do... an you remember what happened next… right?! Houston we have ignition!

Advantages

  1. The sun is always there, serving an inexhaustible source of fuel.
  2. Environmentally friendly
  3. It is an excellent supplement to other sources
  4. Versatile, can be used for hot water, heating, cooling, and power generation
  5. Sunlight is absolutely free
  6. Nearly maintenance free
Disadvantages
  1. Some geographical areas may not be adequate to produce sufficient energy
  2. Poor areas may require to produce sufficient energy
  3. Initial installation initial cost may be prohibitive
  4. No energy production during night time hours

Return to Concentrator List
Return to Collector Type List


The Fresnel Lens
The lens looks sort-a like a LP (long play) album, except it’s semitransparent. Most are made of plastic. The Fresnel lens has been around since 1822. The lens is able to generate steam when used with thermal energy absorbers and fluid. It can also concentrate solar energy into photovoltaic cells.

The main benefit of Fresnel solar collectors is their space saving quality and cost of manufacturing. Lens efficiency depends upon the number of groves regardless of it’s flat construction. It’s focal point is close to the lens plate, therefore collector panels needn’t be very deep.

Remembering the magnifying glass example, this lens will do much more than burn a leaf. It will set a piece of wood on fire and boil a test tube full of water.

Danger - you should exercise extreme caution when handling one of these in direct sunshine. Due to their high efficiency, allowing eyes or fingers in the focus of the lens could cause blindness and severe burns. It can be dangerous if one is careless.
Return to Concentrator List
Return to Collector Type List


Parabolic Dish Collector
This class produces very-very ultra high-temperatures. They can generate steam. They can to power destroy hazardous materials (thermal detoxification).

The dish looks like a TV satellite dish. It can be small to very large. The idea is to focus the sun’s energy on a small precise focal point, allowing the sunlight to produce heat. Similar to trough concentrators, parabolic dish systems utilize positional heliostat tracking for both horizontal and vertical axes.

Concentrated temperatures of 2000°,F are possible. Parabolic Dish Concentrators are capable of achieving the highest efficiency of any concentrating system.
Return to Concentrator List
Return to Collector Type List


The Parabolic Trough
A Parabolic Trough looks like the capitol-letter U. Its shape focuses the sun's radiation on a linear receiver located at the focus of the parabola. The receiver is an absorbing tube positioned in the troughs focal plane and runs the length of the trough. Fluid flowing through the tube, circulates through heat exchangers where high pressure superheated steam is generated.

During the day, single axis heliostats track the sun from east to west to maintain continuously focused solar radiation on the receiver. Large trough arrays are almost exclusively used to produce steam for steam turbine generators. Troughs can focus up to 100 times the sun’s normal intensity. Liquid temperatures can reach as high as 800°,F.
Return to Concentrator List
Return to Collector Type List


Power Tower System
Power towers (heliostat power plants) use a central tower in which a fixed target is located. Trough collectors or flat (heliostats) mirrors are positioned so that as the sun sweeps across the sky, the solar radiation reception is maximized.

The simplest heliostat uses a clockwork mechanism connected to turn the collector mirrors, or solar panels in synchronization with the earth’s rotation. More sophisticated systems use computers to track the sun.

One site uses over 1,600 heliostats to track solar radiation, reflecting the sunlight onto a 195 ft tower. The intensity of the concentrated energy reaches from over a 1000°,F to over 2700°,F. The hot liquid exchanges heat to a storage (salt) medium for steam generation later.
Return to Concentrator List
Return to Collector Type List


Stationary Concentrating Solar Collectors
This collector’s name is somewhat misleading. It leads one to think of the power tower, because it’s stationary. However, this type can be bigger than a football stadium and produce huge quantities of heat.

Actually, the absorber accompanies the concentrators. Usually, this system may use one of a variety of collectors. One configuration may use a flat plate reflector; another, a parabolic reflector, and even trough style collectors are used. Ironically, even a solar cooker is included in this type. The reason being is that solar cookers have a wide acceptance aperture in which the target absorber is positioned.

Using stationary concentrating collectors for directing and concentrating solar radiation is cost effective. Directing the sun’s energy onto an accompanying absorber with a wide-angle acceptance aperture eliminates the need for solar tracking devices.
Return to Concentrator List
Return to Collector Type List


IV. DESICCANTS and INSULATION
Desiccants
A desiccants is silica gel. The stuff comes in porous bags and used to keep a solar collectors insulation dry. Dry insulation keeps glazing clear. Stagnation temperatures will cause insulation to outgas. This will cause a rapid deterioration of its performance. Moreover, the air confined inside during assembly contains moisture, that will eventually condense and soak into the insulation.

Desiccant is an important part of a quality collector. Access to the desiccant is not required in properly sealed units, as they do not require rejuvenation. Where two glazing covers are used, placing desiccant between the panes is a good idea. In addition, providing small vent holes in the pane spacers to allow the trapped air access to the desiccant is necessary. Otherwise, condensation will appear on the inner surface of glass.

Insulation
Polyisocyanurate and Polyurethane based foams are used extensively for collector insulation because of their high ‘R’ value. Both are closed cell foams available in spray-on, pour-in or in rigid foam boards. The ‘R’ value of course depends on the foam weight factor.

The DIY’er needs to know that different ‘R’ values vary by the foam’s weight. Obviously, two lb foam has a lower ‘R’ value than higher weights. Factories can afford costly application resources such as high-pressure duel-component spray machines and fusion guns. However, unless a DIY’er has access to this kind of equipment, the best bet is pour-in or rigid foam boards.

It is very important how case insulation is applied. Using binder free fiberglass wool to provide a thermal barrier blanket between the foam (if used), the absorber plate and connecting tubing is essential for hazard free medium to high temperature collectors. Should either the absorber or tubing come in contact with supporting case, severe heat losses will occur.

Ideal collector insulation should provide a tight vapor barrier. However, the use of polyurethane foam for insulation maybe prohibited in thermal hazard areas. DIY’ers should check with local building code for material restrictions. In addition, if a urethane is used, the toxic fumes may outgas when during temperature stagnation.
Return to Collector Type List


V. EVACUATED TUBE SOLAR COLLECTORS (EGT)
Air inside the glass tubes is removed, hence a vacuum. Evacuated tube collectors eliminate conductive and convective heat losses. Moreover, capturing solar radiation during cloudy weather is not a problem, because infrared radiation passes through the clouds. Cold windy weather has little effect either.

This type may use selective absorber fins or provide barium coating inside the tubes to collect sunlight. Heat-tube with attached absorber fins occupy the space inside a vacuum (thermos) sealed outer tube. This type of collector is among the most efficient of all solar collectors. They are well suited for cloudy cooler climates.

A complete collector panel consists of a large number of individual tubes positioned in parallel rows and connected to a header pipe. The clear glass ‘thermos bottle’ construction makes for a unique energy collector. They are capable of producing temperatures from 125°F, to well over 300°F.

Primarily employed in heating applications; because they produce ultra-high temperatures, they are also used for refrigeration refrigerant regeneration. All devices consist of either glass-glass-metal or glass-metal tubes. See tube style illustrations.

The design has a smaller tube (thermos style) inside a larger one. The outer tube is glass, the inner, either glass or metal. The metal of choice is copper. The inner copper tube has a flat or curved powder coated fin attached to it, which absorbs sunlight but inhibits refection eliminating heat loss.

There are two basic types, both use vacuum to insulate against heat loss. The main difference between them is how the water receives the absorbed heat. The direct flow simply flows in cold, gets heated then hot back out.

On the other hand, the heat pipe is simply a sealed pipe that heats and then transfers the absorbed heat into a heat exchanger where the water gets heated. Okay, let’s get a look at both, and a couple of variations:

  1. Direct Flow Evacuated-Tube
    1. Concentric Fluid Inlet and Outlet Pipe (glass-metal)
    2. Separated Inlet and Outlet Pipe (glass-metal)
  2. Heat Pipe Evacuated Tube Collectors
    1. Evacuated Glass Tube Solar Collectors

Concentric Fluid Inlet and Outlet Pipe (glass-metal)
This direct flow approach uses two copper pipes - one inside the other. The smaller pipe is for inleting cold water (see illustration) and the larger pipe is the hot water outlet. Notice that the evacuated glass tube surrounds both.

The larger pipe has an attached fin. This fin is the absorber. The advantage of this arrangement is its rotational symmetry. This permits adjustment of individual pipes, so that their absorber fins are at the best tilt angle to catch sunlight. These are fully adjustable, regardless of the solar collectors mounting position.

Over time, there is the possibility of vacuum loss due to the expansion asymmetry of glass and metal. A glass-metal seal maintains the vacuum. Over time, the constant expansion-contraction of dissimilar (metal glass) materials, weaken the seal. This could lead to a possible loss of vacuum.

Consequently, as time passes a solar collectors efficiency can deteriorate. Without vacuum, they are no better than an ordinary flat-plate collectors.

Separated Inlet and Outlet Pipes (glass-metal)
Another direct flow approach is the use of a loop of pipe inserted in the vacuum tube (see illustration). It is likely that this is the most commonly used variety. The absorber plate (fin) attached to fluid flow pipe may be flat or curved.

Evacuated Glass Tubes Collector
A third variety incorporates two glass-in-glass tubes fused together at one end to form a closed (thermos bottle) type configuration. Though similar to heat pipes this variety is actually more versatile. A barium getter placed between the tubes at manufacture, maintains the vacuum between the two tubes. High fusing temperatures during the manufacturing process, caused the getter to shower vapor on the inside of the inner tube with a coat of pure barium.

Barium is an active absorption agent. It quickly removes the presence of CO, CO2, H2, O2, H2O and H2 generated during manufacturing and operation. Should a fracture occur in either inner or outer tube, the silver (barium) color turns a milky white, signaling the condition of the tube.

This type is efficient and costs are less than the glass-metal variety. Because both tubes are glass, heat contractions and expansions have little effect on them. They provide excellent solar radiation absorption and allow only minimal reflection.

Heat Pipe Evacuated Tube Collector
Heat pipe evacuated-tube is similar to the concentric configuration only with glass fused to glass. This type consists of an outer glass tube fused at the tubes end to the smaller one inside (see illustration). A vacuum is resides between the two. These are similar in appearance to very long laboratory test tubes.

Inside the glass tubes, rests a smaller copper heat pipe. Along with a vacuum, this pipe contains a small amount of distilled water or alcohol. Since liquid boils at lower temperatures, a change in the liquid when solar heat is applied will bring about an excellent heat source. Boiling occurs even in subdued sunlight.

So the stuff'll boil, that's great, but how does that make hot water? Here's how. Cool liquid lies at the bottom of the tube; applying solar radiation heats the liquid. As it’s heated, it turns into a hot vapor, which rises to the top (heat rises). The super-heated tube transfers this thermal energy into the fluid flowing through the heat exchanger manifold.

During this step, the hot vapor cools, condenses and falls back to the bottom, in a liquid state. This cycle occurs continuously, or as long as solar radiation is present. This liquid may be potable water, alcohol or glycol.

CautionThe temperatures of evacuated tube solar collectors are always higher than flat-plate systems. Careful control of fluid circulation will eliminate overheating problems where temperatures below the boiling threshold (112°,F) are ideal. Just remember boiling can occur even in subdued sunlight.

Evacuated Tube Solar Collectors will collect snow. Since virtually no heat escapes, snow does not melt, and therefore a problem. Should snow collect between the glass tubes, the collector will not capture the sun’s energy.

Advantages

  • Evacuated tube collectors are excellent insulators
  • Very little thermal losses even in cold climates
  • Effective substitute for flat plate collectors for space heating
  • Works well in overcast climate conditions
Disadvantages
  • Most expensive
  • Extremely fragile, require careful handling
  • Safeguard to avoid ultra high temperatures and boiling water
  • Loading must be maintained to avoid over temperature damage
  • Must maintaining temperatures below the boiling point
  • Tendency to collect snow because of zero heat losses
  • Snow pile-ups will prevent solar radiation capture

Let’s do a quick comparison between the direct flow and heat pipe types:
Direct Flow

  • Removing tubes may be a problem
  • New evacuated glass tube versions allow water pipes to slip in and out easily
  • More versatile
  • Will work on flat roof
Heat Pipes
  • Easily disconnected for removal
  • Effective at lower solar radiation levels
  • More expensive
  • Must be installed at an angle for gravity to work
  • Will not work on flat roofs

In summary, evacuated tube solar collectors will provide a credible money saving part of your heating, hot water and refrigeration budget. A twenty four-tube array will normally provide enough hot water for a family of four. Payback rewards may be modest at first, but eventually tight budgets will find relief. It all depends on the type of system and its extensiveness.
Return to Collector Type List


VI. GLAZING
Generally, glazing is the insulation against heat loss - not electricity, or sound. The insulating gap is an air space between the glazing and the absorber through which the heat must travel. Obviously, keeping this space to a minimum in order to inhibit convection currents is essential. Double and triple pane glazing reduces this space.

Put another way, glazing is simply the clear barrier that allows solar radiation to enter the collector, but not reflect out. Two types of glazing are used:

  1. Glass
  2. Plastic

Glass
Tempered plate glass with low-iron content is the best glazing material. Low-iron glass permits more solar radiation to penetrate into the collector absorber and inhibits reflection losses.

In other words, short wave radiation from the sun passes through the collectors glazing and long wave (heat) infrared is blocked and therefore contained. The quality or grade of glass will determine the degree of the collector’s efficiency.

Plastic
When cost and weight are important factors, using plastics such as ordinary fiberglass reinforced plastic, or polycarbonate plastic, acrylic or Tedlar coated PVC may be the way to go. However, there are drawbacks to using plastic. For example, according to NASA, weather-able vinyl PVC will deteriorate after approximately two years.

Tedlar coated PVC lasts eight years. Acrylics perform the best with a twenty-year service span. A well-sealed collector will likely deteriorate over time. During its deterioration, the plastic will outgas. Outgassing deposits an oily on the inside of the glazing. The result is an inefficient collector.

DIY’ers should consult local building codes should for material restrictions in high fire risk residential zones. Remember, shaving expenses may result in inefficient collector performance.
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VII. GLAZED FLAT-PLATE COLLECTORS
Glazed flat-plate solar collectors find use in either liquid or air-based systems. They are also a DIY’er favorite.. However, they are inefficient when used for space heating.

Glazed flat-plate solar collectors are best suited for low to moderate temperature applications from 85 to 160°F during the colder seasons. The liquid-based collectors provide hot water for domestic and commercial uses and heating indoor swimming pools. Air-bases systems find use for general heating and ventilation and for drying crops.

Glazed flat plate solar collectors are configured like a sandwich, with the absorber in between a transparent (glass or plastic) pane and insulation. Glazing allows maximum sunlight to reach the collector/absorber while minimizing heat loss. The absorber plates can be made of sheet metal, layers of screen, and suitable non-metallic materials. Natural convection air flows over the absorber or with a fan. Because air is not as efficient as liquid, it transfers less heat.
Return to Collector Type List


VIII. LIQUID BASED COLLECTORS
Simply put; liquid based solar collectors use fluid as the heat transfer medium. The liquid may be potable or distilled water, glycol, or some kind of mineral oil. Depending upon the system’s design, whether open or closed loop, some kind of fluid always circulates into or through the collector.

In this type, solar thermal radiation heats the liquid flowing through tubes in or in close contact with the absorber plate. The collector can be either a parallel or a serpentine configuration. Systems that require draining to prevent freeze-ups should not use the serpentine style. The reason is the lower curved pipes will not drain completely. Remember, the type of collector you choose will depend on the local climate, and the desired water temperature.
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IX. SOLAR ENERGY GLOSSARY
Solar collectors involve a lot of good basic technology. To find the right term or simply look up a definition,
click here for a decent glossary.
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X. SOLAR COOKERS
As solar collectors go, solar cookers are serious devices. I'm sure you don’t find it difficult to imagine frying eggs in one, but what about a large casserole, or a roast. Yes, you can do all three. The reason being is that solar cooker temperatures can reach 450°,F. Okay - let’s look at em.

There are three types of solar collectors for cooking. The most common are those listed below:

  1. Box Cookers
  2. Curved Concentrator Cookers
  3. Panel Cookers

A box cooker will cook a meal at moderate to high temperatures. If they are large enough, they can even accommodate several pans. A curved (parabolic) concentrator cooker focuses sunlight on a target pot. This variety cooks food very fast but require constant adjustment for optimum cooking. The panel cooker consists of a flat reflective panel that focuses solar radiation onto a cooking vessel.
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XI. UNGLAZED FLAT PLATE COLLECTORS
Unglazed Flat Plate Solar Collectors find use in low temperature applications such as swimming pools, fish farm rearing ponds, preheating car wash water and summer campgrounds. This type is the most commonly used in North America. Since demand temperature is usually less than 85°,F, they find the most use during the warmer months, because they have no insulation.

This variety use a UV stabilized black plastic without glazing allowing most of the sun’s energy to be absorbed. In that sense, they are very efficient. However, they use no insulation, heat losses are a significant, especially during cooler weather. In fact, being without insulation, heat transferred by just warm air on cloudy days warms the water.
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XII. USED FOR ETHYL ALCOHOL DISTILLATION
*How solar collectors turn sunshine into ethyl alcohol. Page under construction.
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XIII. LINKS
Build it Solar -
The Renewable Energy site for Do-It-Yourselfers, and a whole bunch more.

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