Subscribe To This Site
XML RSS
Add to Google
Add to My Yahoo!
Add to My MSN
Subscribe with Bloglines

Home
Nav Header Energy Blog
I. Sun
DIY Solar
Active Solar
Choose a Site
Free Solar
Off Grid Living
Passive Solar
Solar Heating
Solar Collectors
Solar Hot Water
Solar Heat
Solar Cooling
Solar Cookers
Solar Energy
Solar Stills
II. Wind
DIY Wind
Fast Air
Turbine Siting
Turbine Towers
Wind Power
Thermoacoustics
Zero Point Energy
ZPE Plans
Maglev
III. Water
Hydroelectric
DIY Micro Hydro
Stream Engines
Water Wheels
Hydrogen
H Energy
Water Torch
Hydrogen BBQ
IV. Biomass
Biofuel
Bio-ethanol
Make Alcohol
Methanol
DIY Biodiesel
Woodgas
Coal
Syngas
Liquid Coal
V. Geothermal
Big Boats
Big Trucks
Diesel Engines
Family Car
Gasoline Engines
Heavy Equipmt
Pleasure Boats
RV's
Work Boats
The Grid
E Components
Energy Store
About Me
 

Quality electrical components help make all the electricity you need.


But for quality electrical components, generating solar, wind and hydro electricity would be neigh on to impossible. In a sense, these components are like glue. Putting them together in a practical way produces clean usable electrical power.

This is sort-a like putting a bunch of electrical parts together to build a really handy widget. When the price of glue goes down, more widgets are built and pretty soon everyone wants one.

With the advent of thin film solar, the cost of PV cells going down, and wind generator costs being reduced, wouldn’t you say generating power with one or the other makes really-really good sense.

Serious power generation needs precision electronic control elements especially if the electricity you’re making is intended to be intertied with the Grid. If not, at the very least, as an emergency alternate energy supply to feed the home’s AC electrical system. Without all the electrical elements; impossible.

Besides, quality electrical components are a must if you wish to avoid destroying that new plasma wide screen. Of course, off grid living is the ultimate goal.

DC electricity from photovoltaics wind generators and hydro turbines, must be converted to 60 cycle AC in order to be utilized in the homes standard utility system. But there’s a lot more to controlling electricity than reorganizing a few electrons.

A variety of electrical components is needed to produce the kind of energy that’s usable. The principles are really not rocket science, but they are important, so let’s move ahead.

Please note; the typical system electrical components illustrations on this page are not exact, but they do closely resemble the actual electrical part for your benefit.

The list below is a generalized assortment of various electrical components required to support PV solar, wind and hydro generator alternative energy source systems. Each of thee electrical components is explained in more detail:

  1. Wind Turbine Generators
  2. Generator Dummy Load
  3. The Photovoltaic Array
  4. The Array DC Disconnect
  5. Fusing The System
  6. The Charge Controller
  7. Do I really need one of these things?
  8. Battery System Monitor
  9. Resistance, Current, Power and Energy
  10. Batteries and Battery Banks
  11. The Main DC Disconnect
  12. All About Inverters
  13. AC Breaker Panels
  14. Kilowatt Power Meters
  15. Backup Generator AKA Genset
  16. Wire and Cable
  17. Miscellaneous Hardware
  18. Some Final Notes
  19. Most often asked questions

We’ll start this with the two most important electrical components without which, no electricity could be produced from wind, hydro or solar.

Wind Turbine Generator
Wind turbines AKA
Wind Systems for private power generation usually produce DC electricity. However it really depends on the type of generator one builds or purchases. Some home built systems produce AC. It's then rectified to DC for further use.

The ultimate goal with any home power system is to become energy independent and perhaps connect to the grid. And electrical components provide a means to do that. Special constituent parts such as controllers and inverters convert DC electricity to AC.

Special electrical devices prepare the generated electricity to match the utilities 60 cycle single phase power delivered to your home by the utility.

Installing a wind power system is recommended only for experienced DIY home owners, otherwise an experienced contractor should be consulted.

Even then, an experienced diy’er may find such a project challenging. Careful attention to every detail for such a project is a must. For example, erecting the tower should only be done with lot’s of help for it's safe and precise placement.

Unfortunately, the initial cost of quality systems may be a deterrent to such a project. However, remember the initial cost may be offset by renewable energy installation tax incentives. Such incentives are becoming more and more popular as the cost of energy rises and electrical components costs are becoming more economical.

If you plan to make the project entirely or part do-it-yourself, then I suggest referring to these great DIY’er sites. Let these inspired craftsmen and skilled tinkerers show you how it's done. And while we're at it, here's a UK site with phenomenal resources.

Return to List


Generator Dummy Load (Dump)
In practice, a free-wheeling wind generator is a bad idea. Not every one will self-destruct, but to prevent undue stress from turning to fast, some kind of a load should be provided. Hence the electrical component called the dummy (dump) load.

The charge controller will divert the generators energy to a dummy load when the batteries cannot accept all of the electricity it produces. This component converts the kinetic energy of the spinning blades into heat.

The dummy load can be a space heater, a water heater, or shielded high wattage resisters as shown. One resourceful individual diverted the excess energy to peltier thermocouple devices where both heating and cooling are a byproduct of throw-away energy. Great idea!

However, you can stall or furl the blades. This aerodynamically cancels the lift characteristics of the blades airfoil by creating artificial parasitic drag. In other words, reposition the blades with respect to the winds direction so they won’t spin.

Return to List


The Photovoltaic Array
When sunlight strikes a solar cell, electricity flows. It’s free energy, but it's got to go somewhere – and it’ll do something when it gets there with the right electrical components.

It makes little difference whether the PV cell is in a Wal-Mart® calculator, or hundreds of them tied together in huge panels adorning someone’s roof; they all work the same.

So, gather a bunch of em together; arrange them into PV panel array groups. Connect each group in series, you know like flash light batteries (see the series parallel illustration below).

Now hook each group together in parallel and you’ll produce lot’s of pure solar electricity ready to do something. The electrical components will take it from there. Isn’t this great stuff?!

As a matter of fact, with several groups, you'll have enough extra electricity send it to the grid. Then your system can be classified as utilityinteractive (UI).

At this point, living with solar electricity is no different than living with grid electricity.

Using premium electrical components, I like to call em glue, makes all this possible. It also creates the opportunity to sell your excess power to the local utility and save a bundle of $$$. Sweet huh!

Return to List


Array DC Disconnect
The first of the essential (glue) electrical components is a switch to cut off the array DC voltage. Yes, it's an ordinary everyday switch.

Such a device; for our purposes, is called an array disconnect or an on-off switch or breaker large enough to handle solar panel currents. Of the electrical components, other than wire, this is the simplest.

A fifteen amp breaker is usually sufficient for one panel. A 150 amp AC circuit breaker box with space for say, six or eight breakers, would easily handle the panels. This component is one you can make yourself.

This particular switch is an absolutely necessary electrical component. Basically, it’ll keep you from welding your screw driver to ground.

In other words, it’s for safety when system maintenance or troubleshooting is required. The inexperienced always seems to use a screw driver to test electrical stuff???

Anyway, the switch is simply a DC rated electrical SPST switch, one per arrat in a metal box. Fuses can also be used if desired or deemed necessary, but personally, I prefer using breakers where required. It's easier to throw a switch than pull a fuse.

Return to List


Fusing The System
The second are fuses. These are almost undistinguishable within a complex maze of electronic components. However they are important. Used at critical points throughout the system, they quietly protect your investment.

You will likely notice that breakers have a lower current trip point than fuses. The reason is that breakers do not trip as fast on a momentary surge.

Never calculate a fuse size larger than 125% of the maximum allowable surge power of the inverter. For instance, if your 12 volt inverter’s rating is 2000 watts with a 3000 watt surge rating, you should divide 3000w by 12v and you’ll get 250 - right!

Okay now multiply 250 times 1.25(%) and you’ll get 312.5 Amps. 300 Amp fuses are standard, with the 400 Amp next. Since a 400 Amp fuse is way to large, I’d opt for the 300 Amp version. Be safe!

Return to List


The Charge Controller
The third of our electrical components is the charge controller shown right. Yes, unless you want to spend a small fortune on batteries, you’ll need one to protect the batteries that you paid good $$$ for.

The average controller will handle currents ranging from 6 to 40 ampere, while some will handle much more. Should greater current capacity be required, multiple units of the appropriate amperage may be wired in parallel.

Below is a list of attributes these particular electrical components should feature:

  1. Low voltage disconnect
  2. Low voltage reconnect
  3. Reverse Polarity Protection
  4. Three stage charge control
  5. Auto Equalization
  6. Maximum Power Point Tracking
  7. Temperature Compensation
  8. Over Temperature Protection
  9. Over Load Protection
  10. Night Mode
  11. Do I really need one of these things?

Low Voltage Disconnects
Not to be confused with the array dc disconnect (the ordinary switch), a desirable attribute included in premium controllers is low voltage disconnect (LVD). Basically, whatever is connected to the load terminals will be shut off to keep the batteries from discharging to harmful low levels.

Some units may incorporate a timer to allow a grace period elapsing before shutting down. However this feature can be bypassed and the reset time extended in case of emergencies. Small non-essential loads like lights and radios are often connected to such outputs.

Low Voltage Reconnects
When the battery voltage is above the Low Voltage Reconnect, the controller reconnects the load. Basically, this is the LVd’s exact opposite.

Reverse Polarity Protection
Quality units provide reverse polarity protection. That is, they will not allow passage of an incorrect polarity to damage sensitive parts in other electrical components. Basically, processor controlled high current solid state transistors block current flow in the wrong direction. Older units used diodes and silicon controlled switches (SCS) for protection.

Return to Charge Controller List

Three Stage Charge Control
Important electrical components are charge controllers. Their function is what the name implies – is to regulate the flow of electricity from solar cells and generators to the batteries. In the process, maintain them in a fully charged state and protect from overcharging.

Pre-programmed micro-controllers (processors) provide a unique charging technique called pulse width modulation or PWM. PWM works by providing a series of pulses of varying duty cycles. A long 90% duty cycle provides greater charge current, while short 10% duty cycles provide much less.

The frequency of PWM is due to the clock frequency of the micro-controllers, but that’s not important here. The micro controller (MC) varies the duty cycle according to the state of charge in the batteries. When a low charge is sensed, longer duty cycle voltage pulses are sent. When a full charge is achieved, the duty cycle drops to very narrow pulses, for example .05% basically none.

Among the diversity of electrical components, micro controller's are excellent devices for inducing digital control of analog circuits such as in solar or generator energy producing systems. The three stages of charging are as follows:

  1. Bulk Charge
    The bulk charge mode sends a maximum amount of current to the batteries. There are no PWM pulses, present, only a study state voltage, basically a 100% duty cycle. As the batteries are charging, the battery voltage increases slowly.

  2. Bulk Absorption Charge
    As the battery voltage climbs to approximately 14.3 volts, the charge voltage is held constant. Then as the charging continues, the charging current slowly drops. This state continues for one hour along with bursts of PWM pulses. After this period, the controller switches to the float charge mode.

  3. Float Charge
    The controller continues to maintain the batteries with short bursts of PWM pulses. Should the battery voltage drop below the float voltage setting for a period of 10 minutes, a new charging sequence is initiated in the bulk absorption charge.

    Such features are efficient during the chemical reaction taking place as the batteries are being charged. If a battery has been discharged to the extent sufficient (electrolyte) material is available, a maximum regulated current is applied while the battery refills.

    During this process, the amount of chemical material is reduced and available for reaction. The PWM charge current is slowly reduced while a preset high voltage is maintained. This way the batteries are more precisely refilled by the chemicals reaction rate. Ultimately, the float voltage retains the batteries full charge condition while engaging self discharge as necessary.

Return to Charge Controller List
Return to List

Auto Equalization
Other controllers may provide adjustable settings for different types of batteries, such as auto equalization.

There are Two Cautionary Points To Remember:
First, Equalization Charging can only be applied to Wet-Type Lead Acid Batteries.
Second, an Equalization Charge Must Never-Never-Never Be Performed on Sealed Wet Lead Acid Batteries

The equalization process goes like this: a current limited higher voltage setting is sent to the battery bank. The high voltage charge changes all battery cells to a 100% charge condition. The normal day to day charge voltage is 13.6 volts.

However when the system does auto equalization the voltage is increased to 14.6 volts. With the voltage increased and current limiting initiated, all cells become fully charged.

Cells already near full charge or fully charged; overcharge boiling the electrolyte begins venting gas. The equalization voltage is usually factory adjusted to plus 1 volt above normal.

Battery manufacturer specification will define precise equalization voltages. After this process is complete, the batteries should be checked and clean distilled water added as needed.

Return to Charge Controller List
Return to List

Maximum Power Point Tracking
Of all the fascinating electrical components for use in home power generating systems, the maximum power point tracking design is one.

However, contrary to what the name suggests, MPPT is not a mechanical tracking system. MPPT systems and mechanical tracking systems are totally different. Okay enough of that, but how do they work.

Be patient! They do not mechanically align arrays sun-ward. They optimize electrical components, electronically controlling the operating output of the modules so that they produce maximum power for use. Should they be used with a mechanical tracking system, maximum results can be achieved.

Okay, but how do they work? The MPPT provides increased battery charge current. The idea is to isolate the PV array or generator from the batteries. This is accomplished with a high frequency DC to DC converter. Why high (HF) frequency? Because, HF is easier to filter to turn into a pure DC voltage.

However that’s not the only reason, the source (solar array/generator) cannot be bogged down. For example: an ordinary charge controller connects the solar array directly to the batteries. This forces or loads the array’s voltage to that of the discharged batteries. Unfortunately, this is usually well below the array’s optimum operating voltage.

Ideally
a solar array should be allowed to operate at its maximum voltage all of the time. Electrical components like MPPT charge controllers make that possible.

These switching wonders work at relatively low frequencies compared to the 5 to 10 mega hertz range that their digital cousin’s operate in. However the frequency they operate in is sufficient.

One of the secrets of this design is that it wider control loop bandwidth which is five to ten times its switching frequency. This means fewer and smaller parts – which means lower cost. But this also means an almost negligible loading of the array or generator. So at 50 to 90 kilo hertz, loading the source is almost nil.

This means 92 to 97% conversion of the output from the array or generator can be used. Therefore, during winter months, charge controller efficiency gain is 20 to 45% and 10 to 15% in the summer. Better yet, MPPT’s conversion rate for grid tie systems is between 94 to 96%.

Another advantage of this electrical component is that its MPPT feature will match any size PV array to the charge controller’s load. For example, you can charge a 24 volt battery with a 60 volt PV array.

The MPPT performs all this with a micro-controller or microprocessor that continually monitors and calculates the optimum voltage the solar array is able to deliver. Because of the higher voltage, smaller gage wire can also be used. Smaller wire will also save you $$$.

The array’s higher input voltage is converted to a lower output voltage through the converter. The output voltage constantly shifts matching the batteries voltage moment by moment.

Because of the isolation (lack of loading), the solar array is able to operate at maximum voltage efficiency regardless of the batteries state. Hence, array power normally wasted can be harvested for use in the system.

The same electrical components digital MPPT system can match a high voltage PV arrays designed for grid tie applications to charging batteries.

Moreover, systems specifically designed for grid-tie applications using solar inverters with MPPTs on board will convert the PV arrays DC voltage to AC to sell back to the grid. Charge controllers with this feature are among the coolest electrical components available.

Return to Charge Controller List
Return to List

Temperature Compensation
A good charge controller provides a means to monitor the batteries temperature during charge and discharge. Charging a battery affects its temperature, how much is determined by the rate of charge. Batteries are sensitive to temperature fluctuations both above and below 75°.

Sealed batteries experiencing temperature variations of more than plus 50° from 77° during periods of charging should be compensated for by modifying the charging threshold. Compensation can be determined by battery monitoring.

DIY’ers can attach Thermistors to the battery bank to provide the necessary data so that charging thresholds can be adjusted. Otherwise factory provided sensors should be used. When no sensor is available the charge controller will set the temperature of the battery at 50°.

Generally, the regulation set-point is 50° and the rate of compensation is mainly -0.05V/°C. Bulk and Float charging voltages will vary due to battery type. However if the regulation setpoint is 50° (25°), then the bulk and float setpoint should be -0.03V/C°.

Return to Charge Controller List
Return to List

Over Temperature Protection
The average charge controllers range is in the 6 to 40 ampere range. These distinctive electrical components supply the necessary voltage and current with which the systems batteries are charged and maintained.

Since such electrical components process so much energy (current), heat is going to be a natural by product. Solid state components used in the controllers design, process and conduct the needed energy to the load. Consequently, they must be continually monitored for inordinate heat. If excess temperatures are detected, the charge controller will cycle off and on.

If this occurs, the solar array or generator charging current is immediately reduced to allow the transistors to cool. When the source is reduced but excess heat still persists, the battery load will be removed. As the temperature drops the source and the load will be reconnected.

Return to Charge Controller List
Return to List

Overload Protection
Another feature provides for protection against overloads. For instance, anytime the current flowing in a circuit is higher than it can safely handle – an overload has occurred. Such an event can cause overheating and can become a real fire hazard.

Overloads can be caused by many different faults, short circuits, stuck relays, incorrect wire sizes, and many such problems. Some controllers are designed to automatically protect against overloads. Most have a thermal reset push button that trips when the switch is heated.

Nevertheless, fusing, and circuit breakers are still used. I would rather have the hassle of replacing a fuse or resetting a breaker then extinguishing a fire.

Return to Charge Controller List
Return to List

Night Mode
Another interesting feature of such electrical components is their night mode scheme. Basically, the length of time the array voltage is below a pre-selected value to when it rises above that value is measured; essentially from dawn to dusk. Generally, the default length of time allowed is 12 hours. This adjustable period is considered night.

During dark hours, when the battery voltage falls below the low voltage disconnect (LVR) value, the load is disconnected. In morning light, when the battery voltage rises above the LVR, the controller will reconnect the load.

Return to Charge Controller List
Return to List

You may pay a little more for electrical components with all the bells and whistles, but in the long run, the system will last longer and provide the kind of performance you should expect.

I guess I really do need one of these things?
Did you know that batteries are very-very sensitive electrical components; very expensive too: continual overcharging will cause irreparable damage. Solar electricity will overcharge a battery if the source is not shut off or damped and you’d never know it.

Basically, a charge controller closely monitors the PV state of charge (SOC) voltage at the batteries. When a specific power point is sensed, the PV output voltage is dampened so that the batteries optimum voltage is maintained but not violated. This is also featured in maximum power point tracking or MPPT systems.

About the question, I think the answer is apparent; it’s a big resounding - YES! We need charge controllers. That is unless you plan on replacing batteries more often than bathroom tissue.

Return to Charge Controller List
Return to List


Battery System Monitor
Electrical components that measure and display a variety of parameters are usually smart metering devices. Basic system performance should include battery voltage levels, current charge, temperature, solar panel voltage outputs and solar electrical power being used.

Depending on your systems the electrical components bells and whistles; you may wish to monitor individual batteries, read individual panels in a group of segments, read various temperatures, and so on. Or you may only want just the basics; it’s entirely up to you.

The principle is: to provide basic operational monitoring, so that the systems important operating characteristics (solar, wind, hydro, or wave electrical power) can be tracked. Then you will have reasonable data.

You can opt for as much or as little data as you wish. In any case, it's good reference material for occasional maintenance and easy trouble shooting.

One manufacture advertises their meter as system “fuel gauges.” Explaining that they indicate the systems energy supply. Good analogy; actually it’s important to monitor how much is coming from the PV arrays and how much is going to the batteries and how much is being lost and why, because such information may indicate a mismatch somewhere. I would want to know.

Various electrical components make up PV array and or wind or hydro turbine powered systems. Hydro or turbine powered and PV arrays need to be monitored to determine which source is feeding the load. Differences in various sources providing power to the load will help determine when which system source is the most effective and under what circumstances.

Because batteries are usually among the the most expensive electrical components in such energy systems, it's therefore crucial that their status be carefully monitored.

Return to List


Resistance, Current, Power and Eergy
Metering will measure the current (amperes) flowing at various points throughout the system. Basically, this is the result to the available pressure. While we're on the subject, let’s have a look at RIPE. A brief explanation may be helpful;

Take any one of these to make simple calculations for your design. Here’s the 12 main formulas you'll likely use:

Metering establishes a given voltage, which is the measure of the force behind current flow. In order to correctly interpret current, we need to know voltage. The state of a batteries charge more or less completes the triad of necessary information metering provides.

The basic readings should include battery voltage, amps and amp hours, temperature, battery full percentage, and secondary readings such as date of last charge, data logging, etc.

Return to List


Batteries and Battery Banks
Batteries are a distinct class of electrical components. Not only do they contain energy, they are very sensitive to it. In any case, the PV array or generator electricity has to do something, go someplace, but in this case - be stored; so a storage battery is the logical place.

Everyone who have had any dealings with batteries larger than a flash light or cell phones, have likely come across the term amp hours (Ah). So what does it mean? Basically it means the amount of energy a deep cycle battery contains, i.e., holds – like a gas tank.

With this information, we can now determine the time in hours that it takes to completely discharge the battery. Then we multiply the sustained amperage drawn from the battery, by the time to when it was one hundred percent discharged. This is the batteries amp hours.

For example, a 100Ah or 10 hour rated battery can support a 10 Amp draw for 10 hours before arriving at 100% depth of discharge (DOD). In other words, 10 Amps times 10hours = 100Ah. The greater the amperage the shorter the time for DOD.

Now then, we can examine the various battery types available. The first is the most well known:

  1. 1. Ordinary automotive Flooded Lead Acid or FLA type.
  2. 2. The Gel Cell or GCA type
  3. 3. Sealed absorbent glass matt or AGM type
  4. 4. The Sealed Lead Acid type

Each of these electrical components types have both desirable and undesirable characteristics. Obviously price and performance are major factors in choosing a type. A little research will help you decide which one is best for your system.

1. A Flooded Lead Acid (FLA) battery
is the most common. Just open the hood on your car and you’ll find one.
Advantages:

Disadvantages:
  • Charging depletes water supply
  • Requires distilled water occasionally
  • Will leak if cracked

Return to Battery Types
Return to List

2. A Gel Cell (GC) battery is just that, an acid gel filled casement.
Advantages:

Disadvantage:
  • Should an overcharge occur, plate void spots will develop that will reduce battery performance.

Return to Battery Types
Return to List

3. Absorbed Glass Matt
An Absorbed Glass Matt (AGM) battery is a casement filled with glass mats that absorb the acid.
Advantages:

Disadvantages:
  • Will leak acid if casement is cracked

The Sealed Lead Acid
The Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) battery commonly refers to both GC or AGM batteries.
Advantages:

Disadvantage:
  • Will leak if cracked.

Which ever type you choose, a decent setup sized to your system should store enough solar electrical energy so that adequate power is available for one to three cloudy days or during power blackouts. Of course power outages never occur – rrright!

Interstate Batteries.com

Return to Battery Types
Return to List


Main DC Disconnect
Battery based systems require a manual disconnect between the batteries and inverter.

The disconnect breaker/switch is a large DC rated device mounted in single slot metal enclosure.

Breaking the circuit between the inverter and batteries allows the inverter to be isolated for service and in order to prevent the primary wiring from over heating - electrical fires.

Return to List


All About Inverters
There are two basic types – ones with built in battery chargers and ones without. Regardless of the type both have one thing in common. Both use DC voltage supplied to them, to convert into a form of alternating (AC) voltage.

One of the earliest electrical components that inverted or converted a voltage, a primitive device that used a mechanical reed was called a vibratory.

Basically, it consisted of a reed with two points that vibrated between two contacts. When the points came in contact with the right side, a positive voltage was conducted. Then on the left side, a negative voltage was conducted.

Well, we’ve come a long ways from those days. Now the basic unite feeds DC voltage into a pair of high speed switching transistors. When one is turned (conducting) on, the other is turned (not conducting) off by virtue of each biasing the other on or off. As a result, the “on” transistor feeds current into one side of a step-up transformer.

Then when the opposite transistor turns on, current is fed into the same transformer only on the opposite end of the same wire the first transistor fed. In other words, the transistors switch on and off, causing the DC voltage to rapidly change polarity in the transformer.

The result is that an alternating voltage appears at the output windings (different wires) of the transformer. This is a simplified inverter.

The previous example produced AC in the form of a square wave – see illustration at right. AC of this nature is only suitable for the most basic applications; such as tools, some motors and light bulbs.

This form of AC was processed to resemble an AC sine-wave, but still retained some square wave components. These were called modified sine wave inverters.

This particular class of electrical components are typed according to their specific function and application. For instance, they can be used for some appliances, speed controllers’ clocks and timers where a square waves or modified square waves are acceptable, but unacceptable in devices where a pure AC sine waves are required.

The inverters described below are representative of the simple to the sophisticated. Because inverters come in all shapes and sizes, we’ll only examine the most common varieties:

  1. Square Wave Power Inverters
  2. Modified Sine Wave Inverters
  3. True Sine Wave Inverters
  4. Grid Tie Inverters
  5. Inverter Battery Chargers
  6. Off Grid Inverters
  7. Inverter Stacking


Already discussed, the square wave inverter is the least expensive and least suitable because of the inefficiency of a square wave for all but most basic uses. Square wave inverters should not be considered for home energy production systems.

Return to List

Modified Sine Wave Inverters
A simpler version of inverter electrical components is the modified sine wave system. These are economical state of the art inverters are the most popular for home energy systems.

They work quite well for most applications. Most computers will work okay with this type, however some won’t. A modified square wave is a stepped wave form that resembles a sine wave.

See example modified square wave drawing right

The exception is that over time the square wave components of the sine wave will take their toll on some components in PC’s and other sensitive electronic equipment. Moreover, advances in consumer products requiring pure AC are on the increase.

Pure AC is also required for precision applications such as CNC (computer numerical control) systems and some automotive control systems such as ABS (automatic braking system) systems.

Yet they are still preferred over the more expensive systems and are recommended for RV’s portable camping equipment and such.

Return to all about Inverters
Return to List

True Sine Wave Inverters
In a class all of its own, these electrical components produce a highly refined sinusoidal wave. Or as close to the mathematical model as is possible.

Okay, so what’s a sinusoidal wave? Such a wave form can be best described as a projection on a plane of the path of a point moving around a circle at a constant speed. In the case of alternating electricity - 60 times a second.

A true sine wave will follow a predictable stable motion. A modified square wave may act in an unpredictable manner because of the non-linear residual of the switched components remaining. Whereas a pure sine wave will have been sufficiently filtered so that the rotation around the circle does not, say – wobble.

As computer controlled electrical components, true sine wave converters monitor for the slightest current drain. When a load is detected (refrigerator turns on, or a light turns on), the inverter automatically comes on line to supply power to the load. When the load disappears, the inverter drops off too. The micro processor tests for loading every 100 milliseconds or so.

In some cases, true sine wave inverters produce cleaner wave forms than the utility companies. This type of inverter is as you might expect – costy, in fact the most expensive.

Return to all about Inverters
Return to List

Grid Tied Inverters
Generally, this type is designed to operate without batteries. Its primary purpose is to convert PV array voltage to AC for the owners use and sell the remainder to the grid.

Rather than charging a battery bank, this type acts the same except it sends the generated electricity back to the grid like it would to an immense bank of batteries to be used by others on line. The main electrical components in this system consists of PV Array a grid tie inverter and a Kw power meter. It’s always a hoot to see your power meter spinning backwards.

However, before the electricity you generate can be sold to the grid, the 60 cycle sinusoidal wave must be synchronized in exact phase and amplitude. Herein lies the difference between an ordinary inverter and a grid tie inverter. The grid tie inverter ensures in-phase power with the grid that ordinary inverters may or may not.

The grid tied inverter must not only be able to synchronize its frequency to the grid, but provide over/under frequency protection; provide over/under voltage protection; and inhibit the presence of DC current from being injected into the grid.

This type differs from off grid inverters in that these have the ability to operate in the presence of active grid voltage. Moreover, they have the ability to force the grid to accept electricity rather than providing it.

To accomplish this, precise control of the output voltage must be maintained. The reason for this is that the utility grid represents a very-very low impedance to the inverter. An uncontrolled supply; i.e., an inverter, could go into a thermal run away, burning up in a very short time.

This happens because the grid will sponge up (suck) the voltage presented to it. If it could, it would absorb the voltage offered to it, accelerating in the absorption. To prevent this, the inverter controls the rate at which the output voltage is fed to the utility by the amount it is able or permitted to provide.

These inverters can operate with or without a battery bank. Mounting the grid tied inverter out doors is okay, however I suggest providing a covered shaded spot.

Return to all about Inverters
Return to List

Off Grid Inverters
Another class of electrical components that convert DC electricity produced by the solar panels into AC electricity is the off grid inverter. These are compatible with AC lighting, appliances and so forth.

They are primarily used with wind, solar or hydro power systems for homes, businesses and facilities completely disconnected from electric utility companies. Although, such systems are also used for backup power where the local utility is used.

In this case, the inverter should incorporate an AC (inverter battery charger) charger so that seamless backup power is available when a utility power failure occurs. These should be situated in covered enclosures, preferably indoors adjacent to the battery bank.

Return to all about Inverters
Return to List

Inverter Battery Chargers
The inverter charger is a one of the electrical components that find their way into recreational vehicles, marine pleasure craft, remote cabins and for necessary UPS power backup.

Obviously they has built in chargers. Inverters-chargers smaller than one KW are useful for small loads, i.e.,computers, laptops, portable communications equipment. A number of 100, 250 and 500W devices are available, but most are 1Kw and above.

Most inverter-chargers manufactured recently are outfitted with 3-stage, i.e., bulk charge, bulk absorption charge and float charging feature. Equipped with a three-stage charging system allows for 24-7 on line monitoring.

For example, if such a system is connected to AC power, some of that power will be diverted to the batteries. In case AC power is lost, the inverter automatically switches to battery backup. This action is very fast - the lights won’t even blink.

Return to all about Inverters
Return to List

Inverter Stacking
Sometimes you can connect similar multiple electrical components together. For example, you can join multiple compatible inverters to one another, i.e., stacking.

Stacking two inverters together will provide more power or a higher voltage. For example, connect two in series doubles the output voltage. On the other hand, connect two in parallel and the power is doubled.

Connecting two congruous 2,000 watt inverters in parallel will yield 4,000 watts, that’s 4KW. While connecting two 120 volt inverters in series and get 240 volts. For example if 120/240 volts AC is required, the series connection will provide such outputs.

Return to all about Inverters
Return to List


AC Breaker Panel
Other ordinary electrical components common to nearly every home and business is the ordinary breaker panel. Generally located in basements, utility rooms, on garages walls and sometimes even on the exterior of a buildings, but usually ignored. They are nearly always in close proximity to the main KW power meter.

Most people have some knowledge of this electrical components function. Each panel circuit breaker feeds a branch. These are usually labeled so you know what's what: hall lights, main bathroom, living room, refrigerator – dishwasher, and so on.

As you know, some labels are crossed out, written over, once for lights and convenience plugs, but lately for the hot water heater. However their purpose is always the same, to branch electrical power throughout the home or business.

Return to List


Kilowatt Power Meters
In most cases, local utility companies provide the all important electrical components that keep track of how much power customers use.

All homes and businesses tied to the grid, connect through their own power meter. Ironically, they're so obvious we generally ignore them, or completely overlook them.

Look at yours; watch the slowly turning flat wheel. When it spins faster, you’re using more electricity, slower, you’re using less.

I take great pleasure in watching a wheel spin slowly backwards. This means the solar electricity you're producing is going to someone else on line. They're paying, while you're getting paid.

A bidirectional power meter will add to or subtract from the power being used, i.e. sold to the utility. The wheel will spin in both directions. Most meters are bidirectional. If you don’t have this type, the local utility will usually supply one for free. Although they may charge to install it.

Return to List


Backup Generator AKA Genset
Of all the electrical components available, gensets stand in the forefront. Although gensets are optional components, many families purchase them primarily for power outages. A wide variety of gasoline, diesel, bio diesel, propane, and natural gas units are available.

Gensets range from just a few hundred watts to huge MW systems that are capable of running a small town. Purchasing a large gen-set strictly for family use is not however necessary and is usually a waste of money.

Well designed solar electric and wind systems incorporating a gen-set may only require its operation for no more than two few hours a year. Of course, this depends on how long the power is out.

Return to List


Wire and Cable
Yes, wire and cable are electrical components too. A properly sized wire will provide adequate performance for charging batteries, for bright lights and dim and optimum operation for tools and appliances.

When designing an electrical system, keep in mind that for any given length of wire, there will always be a voltage drop over the length of that wire. What that drop is depends on the size of the wire and the safe current it is expected to carry.

The idea that just any piece of wire will do is so long as it is large enough to carry the load is is not good. So here’s how to tell what size wire goes where.

Recommended  Breakers,Fuses, and Wire Sizes for Inverters
InverterWatts Inverter DCVoltage Input,Breaker or Fuse DC Wire SizeMinimum
50 - 150 12 20 Amp 12 to 14
200 - 250 12 20 - 30 Amp 8 -to10
300 - 500 12 50 - 60 Amp 6 to 8
600 - 1000 12 110 Amp 4 to 6
1100 - 1500 12 175 Bkr or200 Amp 2/0 to 2
1100 - 1500 24 110 Amp 2/0 to 4
1800 - 2500 12 250 Bkr 300to 400 Amp 4/0
1800 - 2500 24 175 Bkr or200 Amp 2/0
2600 - 3600 24 250 Bkr or400 Amp 4/0
4000 24 250 Bkr or400 Amp 4/0
4000 48 175 Bkr or200 Amp 2/0
5500 48 175 Bkr or200 Amp 2/0

Return to List


Miscellaneous Hardware
What can one say about hardware? Well, hardware can not be classified as electrical components, however, when in the assemblage of a device, it is.

There's mounting racks for both standard and thin film solar panels, panel racks, panels, steel utility boxes, wire and cable, parts and pieces, towers and general hardware required, see! All this is available at hardware and home improvement stores. How's that?

Return to List


Some Final Notes
When in doubt about which wire size to use, always go with the larger size.

Remember, you get what you pay for. If your electrical components includes a modified sine wave inverter, it may have cost about half the price of a true sine wave inverter. But remember this: it costs less to run a true sine wave inverter than the modified version.

If you’re connected to the utility and wish to sell them some power, take stock of your electrical components inventory, if it includes a grid-tie inverter, you're all set.

If you’re lucky enough to be connected to a utility that never fails, then you needn’t consider spending money on unneeded electrical components, even a small battery bank just in case.

Spend less on wire and cable by using a higher voltage inverter. Because the higher the voltage, the smaller the current – hence smaller wire.

Don’t forget to match the PV array, inverter and battery voltage so they’re all the same. That is if you don't have Maximum Power Point Tracking.

Inverter efficiency generally ranges from 85% to 95%. On the average, 90% is considered about righ.

Return to List


Most often asked questions
Have questions about Wind, Solar, Hydro, Hydrogen,
Get em here. Science related questions, good science stuff here.

Return to List


Links:
Time to say bye bye to Electrical Components!



Custom Search


footer for Electrical components page